Last year during Watches and Wonders 2023, Rolex gave us updated styles and variations of their beloved classic and professional models – as expected. What was not expected was the introduction of an entirely new line of dress watches. Meet the Perpetual 1908: the first release under the Rolex Perpetual Collection named in tribute to the year that founder, Hans Wilsdorf, trademarked the brand name “Rolex”.
Initially released in Yellow and White Gold, the 1908 feels like we’ve known it for a long time despite its recent inception. The Rolex DNA is built into every aspect of the watch and that’s because it’s based on an Oyster Perpetual from the 1930s. Having discontinued the Cellini collection in the same year, the Perpetual 1908 serves as the first born in the next era of dress watches from Rolex.
With the option of a white or black dial, the 39mm watch carries a superb sense of elegance and refinement that can be seen from crown to crown without being over the top. Arabic numerals at 9, 12, and 3 provide high legibility while the remaining baton indices match the sword and Breguet style hands. A simple small seconds at 6 o’clock completes the look. Rolex has retained one of the best details from the Cellini for the 1908 with its expertly crafted double-bezel design pairing fluted and domed styles. The watch is exclusively offered on either a traditional brown or black alligator-leather strap but with a surprise splash of Rolex green on the underside – nice touch. Plus, the new Dualclasp is probably one of my favorites providing upgraded comfortability and security.

Looking within the impressively thin 9.5mm case, the watch is powered by a new in-house 66-hour reserve automatic movement, the caliber 7140. And speaking of looking, the 1908 also has an exhibition case back so that you can see the Rolex Côtes de Genève finish and gorgeous yellow gold rotor in all of their glory.
What excites me most about this watch is that it isn’t just a new model but it also marks the start of a new journey. A fresh line of watches that has untapped potential, I can’t wait to see what they roll out next. Already, in 2024, we’ve seen brand make waves with the new Platinum version with a gorgeous ice-blue guilloché rice-grain motif. If this is any indication of where Rolex is taking this line of watches I’m incredibly excited for what the future holds.

